How to remove a stuck spark plug from a lawnmower engine

I was at my mom's over Christmas and her lawns needed mowing.

So I pulled out the 'ancient beast' to mow the lawns, and dang it, the mower simply would not start into life, try as I might.

On investigation of the spark plug, I noted it was heavily rusted so I deduced that was the problem. I grabbed a spanner and got to work - the plug would not budge, it was bloody stuck. I know I was using the wrong tool, but needs mus so I eventually managed to free the plug with some old pliers.

Nether-the-less, I persisted and removed the plug but the moment got me thinking, what if it was really stuck, how would I remove it?


I did some digging, talked to the neighbour and came up with a guide to finding ways to remove a stubborn and stuck spark plug in a lawn mower - I reckon the same tips would probably apply to a chainsaw or petrol/gas powered weed whacker too!

You will need a spark plug wrench to remove the stuck plug. These can come in various shapes and forms - they can often be found in socket sets.

It's always best to do lawn mower maintenance on a flat, level surface.

A simple one for a Briggs and Stratton mower looks like this for example:

Use penetrating oil: 

Spray penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or CRC lubricant, onto the spark plug and the surrounding area. Allow the oil to sit for a few minutes to loosen any rust or corrosion. Then, use a spark plug wrench to loosen the spark plug. Be gentle, don't force the tool too hard or you could cause damage to the plug compounding your issue.


Tap the spark plug: 

You can use a rubber mallet or a small piece of wood to tap the top of the spark plug gently. This may help to help to loosen any rust or corrosion that may be holding the spark plug in place. Like the above, don't hit it too hard. 

Those are the two simple methods, the next requires the use of a unique tool, a broken spark plug remover.

A broken spark plug remover is a specialized tool that can be used to remove a stuck spark plug. 

You can insert the tool into the spark plug, then turn it to grip the spark plug and remove it.

Use heat to expand the metal:

We think this next tip may be a bit of a loose strategy but it kinda makes sense. 

Apply heat to the spark plug by using a propane torch or heat gun. Be careful not to overheat the spark plug, as this can cause damage to the engine. The heat will expand the metal, making it easier to remove. After heating the spark plug, wait for a moment to cool down, then use a spark plug wrench to remove it.

If none of these methods works, it may be best to seek the help of a professional mechanic or a lawnmower repair shop as they will have specialized tools and expertise to remove a stuck spark plug without causing damage to the engine.

lawnmower maintenance, spark plug, spark plug wrench

Vegetable‑Oil Lube: How to Clean and Maintain Your Chainsaw Bar

Vegetable oil can be a great, eco‑friendly chainsaw bar lubricant - affordable, biodegradable and easy to find. But even the best lube needs occasional cleaning to keep performance high.

Over time, vegetable oil captures dust and sawdust, then cools into a stubborn, cement‑like film that can dull your cuts, overheat the motor and make the chain grab - risking kickback. A quick cleanup prevents buildup from choking off oil flow or fouling bearings.Follow these clear steps to keep your saw running smoothly.

Vegetable oil contains various fats. Heat makes it fluid, trapping dust and sawdust. As it cools, it hardens into a cement‑like buildup that clogs the bar groove, fouls bearings and restricts oil flow.

Wear nitrile gloves to protect your skin - some degreasers are harsh. Use safety glasses to keep debris out of your eyes. Work outdoors or in a well‑ventilated area to avoid inhaling degreaser fumes.

🛠️ Tools of the Trade:

• Soft‑bristle brush (an old toothbrush works)
• Clean, lint‑free rags or paper towels
• Mild degreaser (citrus‑based or bio solvent) or dish soap
• Plastic scraper or putty knife
• Small container or bucket for warm‑soapy soak

🪜 Step‑By‑Step Chainsaw Cleanup for Vegetable Oil

1️⃣ Remove and Secure the Bar and Chain

Shut off the saw and let it cool for a few minutes - hot metal and oil can burn. Pull the spark‑plug boot clear off the plug so there’s zero chance of accidental kick‑starts. Lay the saw on its side on a sturdy workbench or on the ground over an old towel.

Use your wrench to back off the bar nuts evenly - loosen each one a few turns, then finish them off. Carefully slide the bar sideways and lift the chain free. Position both on a rag‑lined tray or old cardboard to catch any leftover drips or grit.

2️⃣ Initial Wipe‑Down

Grab a stack of thick paper towels or lint‑free rags. Press and blot over the chain, bar rails and sprocket area to soak up fresh oil puddles and sawdust cement. Roll oily rags into tight “logs” or twist them into knots—this traps oil without letting it seep out.

3️⃣ Soak and Scrub the Chain

Fill a shallow tub or bucket with warm water (around 40 °C) and add a generous squirt of blue dish soap or a citrus degreaser. 

Submerge the chain fully; you should see oil break away almost immediately. Let it soak 5–10 minutes -  longer if it’s caked on. Use a firm brush or old toothbrush to scrub each link, prying into the tie‑straps and rolling the brush around rivets.

Work methodically: one pass down the length, flip, another pass. Rinse in clean water and repeat the soak/scrub cycle if you still see residue.

4️⃣ Clean the Bar Groove and Oil Port

Dip your brush into concentrated degreaser and press it into the channel that guides oil to the chain. Stroke back and forth along both edges, then switch to the oil‑port hole - push a pipe cleaner or small pick through to free any blockages.

Take your plastic scraper or old credit card, hold it almost flat to the bar, and gently peel off hardened gobs. Avoid digging in at a steep angle - metal gouges create new catch points for future buildup.

5️⃣ Rinse and Dry Components

Hold the bar and chain under a steady stream of clean water. Watch for any suds or leftover grime washing out of nooks. As soon as you finish rinsing, grab a fresh rag and thoroughly wipe every surface: underside, tip sprocket area, chain links, bar groove. Moisture can start rusting steel in less than a minute.

If you’ve got time, let everything air‑dry on a dust‑free towel until no visible droplets remain.

6️⃣ Final Inspection and Relubrication

Slide the chain back onto the bar and loosely fit the nuts - don’t torque yet. With gloves on, spin the chain by hand; it should turn freely with a slight drag. If you feel any catches, repeat scrubbing or inspect for bent links.

Once smooth, torque nuts to the manufacturer’s spec (check your manual). Fill the reservoir with fresh biodegradable bar oil - ideally a green‑blend fortified with anti‑oxidation additives. Run the saw at idle for a minute, watch the oil flick onto the chain to confirm proper flow.

🧼 Washing Up Hands and Gear

Don’t toss oily gloves or rags in your laundry bin. Rinse them under running water first, then launder separately. Wash your hands and arms thoroughly - plant oils can irritate if left on skin.

🔮 Preventing Future Glue‑Ups

Use a winter‑grade or cold‑weather oil when temperatures drop - it stays fluid instead of gelling. Every few tank‑fills, run a citric‑solvent flush: 1 part degreaser to 5 parts bar oil, run the saw briefly, then change back to straight oil. Keep the reservoir topped off - airspace accelerates oxidation.

💡 Extra Pro Tips

• Inspect the sprocket nose for nicks - sharp edges shred oil film. Replace if grooved.
• Invest in a small parts ultrasonic cleaner if you service saws often. It blasts gunk from pivot holes and rivets in minutes.
• After cleaning, coat the bar’s groove with a thin film of anti‑seize compound - cut down on friction and gunk adhesion.

There you go - clean saw, happy cuts, zero sticky surprises. 😎

Using glyphosate weed killer safely around the home & garden

Using Glyphosate to Kill Weeds Effectively and Safely in Your Garden

Glyphosate - sometimes called glyphosphate - is a powerful, non-selective herbicide. It works by being absorbed through the leaves of a plant, then disrupting the plant’s ability to synthesize essential proteins. The result? Both grasses and broadleaf weeds die back, root and all.

It’s widely used by home gardeners and commercial growers alike, and for good reason: it’s reliable, fast-acting, and breaks down in the soil without lingering toxicity. But like any tool, you’ve got to use it right—especially around ornamentals or near your veggie patch.

The most recognizable name in the glyphosate game is Roundup, made famous by Monsanto. But don’t let brand names distract you—the active chemical is what counts, and most generic formulas work just as well at a lower price.

One important note: glyphosate is non-selective. That means if you hit your lawn, roses, or prized citrus tree, they’ll suffer just like the weeds. I learned that the hard way last summer when I mistook it for prickle spray. Lesson burned into my lawn—and memory.

When applying, take care to avoid spray drift. Especially near delicate shrubs, flower beds, or around young fruit trees.

Why Is Glyphosate So Effective as a Weed Killer?

Glyphosate works at the biochemical level. It inhibits a specific enzyme pathway - called the shikimic acid pathway - which is crucial for plant growth. Without it, the plant loses its ability to produce amino acids. Starved of nutrition, the plant yellows, wilts, and dies.

Unlike some herbicides that just burn the leaves, glyphosate travels through the entire plant system, all the way down to the roots. That’s why it’s so effective—it doesn’t just knock weeds down, it takes them out completely.

How to Safely Use Glyphosate Around the Home

Used correctly, glyphosate is safe for home use. But like any chemical product, it deserves respect. The idea isn’t to fear it—it’s to handle it smartly.

Here are some simple, commonsense precautions to follow when applying glyphosate-based herbicides:

🌬️ Choose a still day with no wind to avoid spray drifting onto plants you want to keep alive.

👖 Wear long-sleeved clothing and trousers to limit skin exposure.

🧤 Use protective goggles, gloves, and a face mask—especially when spraying above waist height.

🧪 Wear plastic gloves when mixing concentrate. Glyphosate is safe in diluted form, but spills happen.

🌿 Never touch sprayed plants until they’re dry. Glyphosate takes time to be absorbed.

🚿 Once finished, remove gloves carefully and wash your hands, face, and forearms thoroughly. Shower if you’ve had direct contact or used a backpack sprayer.

How Long Does It Take for Glyphosate to kill Weeds ?

Glyphosate starts working immediately after it’s absorbed into the leaves, but you won’t see visible changes right away. Typically, signs of damage—wilting, yellowing, leaf curl - appear within 7 to 14 days. Complete kill, including root death, can take up to three weeks depending on the species and conditions.

For best results, apply glyphosate when the weather is warm and stable. Aim for temperatures above 60°F (15°C) and a clear forecast with no rain expected for at least 48 hours. This gives the herbicide time to fully absorb into the plant before being washed away.

If you’re watering nearby flowers or vegetables, avoid runoff into sprayed zones. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide—it won’t harm your soil long term, but direct contact with sensitive roots or leaves can be fatal to anything green.

Dying lawn grass—early signs of glyphosate at work

How Do I Apply Weed Killer Like Glyphosate?

If you’ve got a big patch of thistles, couch grass, or wandering weed, a small bottle won’t cut it. Use a pump-action sprayer with a wand attachment. It’ll give you even coverage and lets you spray without constantly stooping or stepping into sprayed zones.

Shoulder-strap sprayers are a smart move if you’re covering a large area. One gallon of mixed glyphosate gets heavy fast. The wand gives you precision, the strap saves your back.

For targeted applications, like a crack in the pavement or a weed sprouting beside your prized camellia, go small. A handheld spray bottle lets you hit only what you intend. Spot spraying means no collateral damage.

You can also use hose-end sprayers that mix automatically. Just connect your hose, spray, and walk away.

When Is the Best Time to Use Glyphosate?

Late spring through early autumn is prime time - plants are actively growing, temperatures are ideal, and the results are fast. Avoid applying during extreme heat, just after rain, or when frost is likely. Moist soil helps uptake, but wet leaves dilute the spray.

If it rains within 6 hours of application, you may need to reapply. Most modern formulations have rain-fastness built in, but early rain can still reduce effectiveness.

Who Discovered Glyphosate?

Glyphosate was originally synthesized in 1950 by Swiss chemist Henry Martin. His work wasn’t published or commercialized, so it flew under the radar. It wasn’t until the 1970s that Monsanto chemist John Franz recognized its herbicidal potential. The rest is, quite literally, agricultural history.

Since then, glyphosate has become a global staple for weed control—both in large-scale agriculture and home gardens—marketed under the brand Roundup and its many generics.

How Safe Is It to Use Glyphosate?

Glyphosate is approved for use in most countries around the world under the oversight of regulatory agencies. In New Zealand, for example, the Ministry for Primary Industries maintains a detailed breakdown of its food and environmental safety here.

The short version: when used correctly, glyphosate poses minimal risk to humans. Despite long-running public debate - including high-profile legal cases - the bulk of peer-reviewed science finds that glyphosate is unlikely to be carcinogenic or mutagenic at typical exposure levels.

That said, it’s not risk-free. 

Glyphosate can be toxic to aquatic life and should never be applied near ponds, creeks, or drainage outlets. It also harms pollinators like bees if sprayed directly or near active hives. So - use it carefully, apply it precisely, and keep it off flowering plants.

How Long Does Glyphosate Last in Soil?

One of glyphosate’s biggest strengths is that it doesn’t stick around in a biologically active form for long. It binds tightly to soil particles and is broken down by microbial activity over time - usually within a few days to weeks, depending on temperature and conditions.

That means it won’t leach deep into groundwater or ruin your next planting season. In fact, glyphosate is often used between crop rotations for exactly this reason: it kills weeds now and fades before the next seeds germinate.

It may still be chemically detectable in soil, but it won’t be active as a herbicide. And that’s the key distinction - residue doesn’t always mean risk.

For home gardeners, this means you can safely spray weedy borders or overgrown patches in late autumn and replant in spring without problems.

Final Thoughts: Use It Right, and Glyphosate Works

Glyphosate isn't a magic wand. 

It's a tool—one that can save you a whole lot of digging and re-digging if used smartly. It works best when the timing, weather, and application are on point. And like any tool, it’s only as good as the care you take with it.

If you’re managing weeds around the edges of your garden, cleaning up driveways, or prepping a section for future planting, it’s hard to beat. But don’t treat it like a shortcut. Use the safety gear. Avoid spraying in wind. And read the label - every time.

Weed control takes patience. Glyphosate just helps make the waiting worthwhile.

glyphosate, herbicide, weed killer

Fishing Pliers 101: How to Choose, Use, and Trust the Tool Every Fisherman Needs

You’re waist-deep in a river, trying to land a twitchy brown trout that just inhaled your nymph rig.

You’ve got line wrapped around your fingers, the hook’s buried halfway to the gills, and your buddy’s yelling something about not losing the net downstream.

That’s when it hits you—you left your pliers in the truck.

Again.

Fishing pliers aren’t glamorous.

They’re not the reel you show off to your mates or the rod you spent three weekends researching.

But when the fish is on and time is tight, they’re the one tool that does about ten jobs at once—and quietly saves your day.

Cut braid.

Pop split rings.

Pull treble hooks out of a flapping kahawai.

This guide isn’t about ranking the “top 10 titanium pliers under $50” or pushing some brand with a flashy sheath.

Just real-world advice from the lens of anglers who’ve fished cold rivers, hot surf, deep estuaries, and still lost a pair or two over the side of the boat.

If you’re here to understand what fishing pliers really do, what to look for in a pair that won’t rust shut after one saltwater trip, and how to pick the right setup for your style of fishing—bank, boat, or backcountry—then grab your gear and let’s get into it.

No fluff, no fuss, just the tools that keep your line wet and your hands out of trouble.

 

What Fishing Pliers Actually Do (And Why It’s Not Just About Hook Removal)

Most people think of pliers as just a hook remover.

And sure, that’s a big part of the job, but it’s far from the whole story.

Let’s say you’re working a rocky point for snapper.

You’re using soft baits on a light jig head, and after a few strikes, your split ring starts to bend from the pressure.

You could fumble with your fingers, maybe wreck a thumbnail, or you could grab your pliers and sort it in ten seconds.

That’s the difference between staying in the strike zone and wasting a bite window.

Same goes for cutting line.

If you’ve ever tried to snip braided line with regular scissors, you know it’s like trying to cut hair with a butter knife.

A decent pair of pliers with a proper side cutter slices clean, no fray, no wasted time.

When the bite is on, time matters:

🎣 Crimping leaders.
🛠️ Adjust a bent spinner arm.
🎯 Tuning the line tie on a crankbait that’s swimming sideways.
🧲 Pulling a rusty hook from a decades-old tackle tray.
🐡 Dislodging a treble from a pufferfish’s rubbery jaw.

All of that falls under the job description.

And when you’re fishing in wind or chop, having a tool you can work one-handed without juggling scissors, split ring tools, or a pocketknife isn’t just useful.

It’s necessary.

Pliers are what keep you fishing when the small stuff starts to stack up.

 

Fishing Pliers Kits: What’s In Them and Why It Matters

Not all pliers come solo.

A lot of anglers optfor full kits, and there’s good reason for that, especially if you’re gearing up for a range of conditions.

A basic pliers kit might include a sheath and lanyard.

Sounds minor until your pliers go for a swim.

Whether you’re bank fishing a muddy stream or bouncing around on a tinny, having your pliers clipped and ready can be the difference between a smooth unhook or a barbed mess.

More complete kits sometimes throw in extras: line scissors, a fish gripper, maybe a hook remover or a small scale.

Handy if you’re packing light or want everything in one place.

Especially useful on a kayak, where deck space is at a premium and fumbling with loose tools just isn’t an option.

Some of these kits are built around saltwater use, with corrosion-resistant materials, anodized coatings, sealed springs, or titanium builds.

Others are made for trout and light tackle, with smaller jaws, finer cutters, and a more compact footprint.

It depends where you fish and how much abuse your gear takes.

One thing’s for sure: if your pliers come with a sheath, use it.

Belt-mounted, clipped to your PFD, or tied to your bag, it doesn't matter.

Just keep them where they can work, not rust at the bottom of a tackle tray.

 

 

Freshwater vs. Saltwater: What Changes

If you fish both salt and fresh, you already know: the gear that works fine on a lake might fall apart after a weekend on the coast.

Saltwater eats tools alive.

It seeps into springs, chews through joints, and leaves even stainless steel pitted if you don’t rinse it.

That’s why saltwater fishing pliers need to be tougher.

Look for materials like titanium, anodized aluminum, or marine-grade stainless.

Bonus if they have sealed hinges or replaceable cutting blades. It’s not just about looking good out of the package—it’s about surviving the season.

In freshwater, you’ve got more forgiveness.

Your pliers won’t corrode as fast, but precision becomes the priority.

When you’re working a small hook out of a trout’s mouth in knee-deep water, you want something with narrow jaws, a smooth grip, and accurate pressure.

Big bulky saltwater pliers don’t always cut it here.

And then there’s line.

Saltwater anglers are often cutting heavy braid or fluorocarbon leaders.

Freshwater guys might deal more with mono or lighter tackle.

So if your pliers are built with a scissor-style cutter, make sure it’s up to the line you use most.

Don’t rely on one tool to handle everything unless it’s built to.

Whatever the setting, a good rinse in fresh water after each use and a bit of drying time goes a long way.

Even corrosion-resistant doesn’t mean bulletproof.

 

Ergonomics: You’ll Thank Yourself Later

Ergonomic features don’t get much attention—until your hands are cramping or your grip slips and you nearly hook yourself.

Then they matter.

Start with the handle design.

Rubberized grips offer traction even when wet, which is essential when your hands are slimy from bait or cold from the river.

Some aluminum pliers go bare-metal for durability, but unless they’re textured or grooved, they can get slick fast.

Spring-loaded jaws are a game changer.

They let you operate the pliers one-handed, which helps when you’re holding a fish with the other.

Especially if you’re trying to unhook a fish that swallowed the lure deep or you’re working quickly in the surf.

Look for ones that have a smooth, predictable action—not something that sticks or squeaks after two trips.

Do fishing pliers have adjustable grips for different fish sizes? Not in the way a wrench does, but jaw length and tip design can make a big difference.

Long needle-nose pliers are great for reaching down a snook or trout’s throat.

Shorter, stouter jaws are better for crushing barbs or working with hardware like split rings.

If you’re hiking to a spot, think about carry comfort.

A belt sheath with a secure latch or magnetic clip is more reliable than a loose pouch.

Some even have drainage holes at the bottom so you’re not storing wet gear.

And if you’re fishing on foot, those few grams of weight saved with a titanium or compact model start to matter.

 

The Debate: Multi-tool vs. Dedicated Fishing Pliers

Every angler’s got an opinion on this, and most carry both.

But if you’ve fished long enough, you know there’s a difference between a tool that gets you out of a jam and one that just works, trip after trip.

A good multi-tool can be a lifesaver.

You might be deep in the backcountry, three rivers past cell service, when your reel screws loosen or a guide starts to bend.

A Leatherman or our personally preferred Gerber with screwdriver tips, a file, scissors, and a decent pair of pliers might be all you need to stay fishing.

Plus, they come in handy for field fixes.

But when you’re out on the water regularly, you’ll start to notice the cracks:

• Multi-tool pliers usually don’t open as wide.
• Their jaws aren’t long enough for deeper hook sets.
• The cutters often struggle with heavy braid or rust up after a few saltwater splashes.

That’s when you’ll wish you had the real thing clipped to your belt.

Dedicated pliers are built for fish.

They’re longer, stronger, more precise.

You can apply torque to crimp a leader, pull a stubborn hook, or snip clean through 50-pound braid.

Some even have replaceable side cutters, split ring tips, or built-in crimping notches.

Bottom line? If you’re hiking into remote water with limited space, a multi-tool earns its keep.

But if you’re on a boat or fishing often, keep proper pliers on hand.

Better yet, do both. Stash your multi-tool in your pack or waders. Clip your pliers to your belt or bag. That way, you’re never caught short.

What to Look For Before You Buy

Forget flashy packaging or tactical names.

A good pair of fishing pliers earns its place by doing the job right—day after day, fish after fish.

Here’s what actually matters when you’re choosing a pair.

Material comes first.

For saltwater, look for corrosion-resistant metals.

Titanium won’t rust and is lightweight, but it’s pricey.

Marine-grade stainless is strong and more affordable but needs regular rinsing.

Anodized aluminum hits the middle ground—it’s light, resists salt, and cuts well, but can get slippery without a rubber grip.

Cutting ability should be high on your list.

Some pliers come with side cutters that slice through braid, mono, and fluorocarbon with ease.

Others claim they do but leave you fraying your leader like a chew toy.

If you use heavy braid, test or check reviews for braid-specific cutters.

Bonus points if the blades are replaceable.

Grip matters more than you’d think.

You’ll be using these with wet, cold, or bait-covered hands.

Look for non-slip handles.

Some use molded rubber, others knurled metal.

Spring-loaded jaws also help with one-handed use when you’re wrangling a fish.

Jaw length and nose style depend on the species.

Trout and panfish need longer, finer tips.

For bigger fish like snapper, kingfish, or barracuda, shorter jaws give you more crimping power and control.

Split ring tips or crimping grooves can be game changers if you swap lures or build rigs often.

They’re not must-haves for every angler, but once you use a pair with the right features, it’s hard to go back.

Storage and access count too.

A sheath with a belt clip or lanyard makes sure you’re not digging around while the fish thrashes. If the sheath has drainage, even better—it keeps things dry and avoids the musty stink that builds up in tight gear bags.

 

Maintenance Tips: Keeping Them Alive (and Not Rusted Shut)

Even the best pliers will seize up or corrode if you treat them like an afterthought.

Saltwater especially doesn’t care how much you spent.

It’ll find a way in.

First rule: rinse them after every trip.

Doesn’t matter if they’re titanium, stainless, or anodized aluminum.

A quick dunk in fresh water at the boat ramp or under the tap when you get home makes a huge difference.

Don’t just toss them into your tackle bag wet.

Dry them properly.

If they came with a sheath, make sure it has drainage holes or leave them out overnight before storing.

Add a bit of oil now and then.

One drop at the hinge goes a long way.

Keeps them opening smooth and stops salt crystals from grinding things down.

Parting Advice: Carry What You’ll Actually Use

The truth is, the best pliers are the ones you’ve got on you when it matters.

You can have the flashiest set with a built-in scale and carbon fiber handle, but if they’re sitting in the glovebox while you’re hip-deep in a river or casting from the rocks, they’re dead weight.

Get something that fits how you fish.

If you’re hiking, weight and packability matter.

If you’re on a boat, prioritize grip, strength, and saltwater protection.

And if you’re fishing both, carry both.

One clipped to your hip, another in your kit.

Look for quality, sure.

But more importantly, look for usability.

Will they stay in your hand when wet? Can they cut cleanly under pressure? Are they there when the fish swallows deep and time’s tight? That’s what matters.

 

Extra for the unlucky:

Accidental Fish Hook Removal: A Quick Guide for Anglers and Pet Owners

The unexpected happens, and sometimes that involves a misplaced cast resulting in a fish hook finding an unintended target – a human hand or the curious mouth of our beloved canine companions.

While the initial reaction might be panic, a calm and methodical approach is crucial for minimizing harm.

If the hook's barb is visible and the entry point is in a less sensitive area, like the fleshy part of a hand or the outer lip of a dog's mouth, and you feel confident, a careful removal might be possible.

Begin by thoroughly cleaning the area around the embedded hook with an antiseptic solution if readily available. Then, utilizing a robust pair of wire cutters – the cutting edge often found on your fishing pliers – carefully snip off the barbed tip of the hook.

With the barb now neutralized, gently withdraw the remaining shank of the hook, ensuring you pull it out along the same path it entered. Once the hook is free, cleanse the wound once more with antiseptic and protect it with a sterile bandage.

However, it is paramount to recognize situations where self-removal is ill-advised and potentially dangerous.

Should the hook be deeply embedded, situated alarmingly close to a human eye or a dog's eye, lodged far back within the confines of a dog's mouth, or near major blood vessels, any forceful attempt at removal is strictly contraindicated.

Such actions can lead to significant tissue laceration, increased bleeding, and a higher risk of infection. In these critical scenarios, your immediate priority should be to stabilize the injured area to prevent any further movement of the embedded hook. Seek professional medical attention for yourself or immediate veterinary care for your dog.

Why it is important to wear a PFD (Personal Flotation Device) when fishing

It Only Takes One Slip.

One misstep on a mossy rock. One rogue swell crashing against a jetty. One foot caught in a snag as your boat lurches sideways. That’s all it takes to turn a good fishing trip into a recovery mission. And once you're in the water - especially cold water - your chances start shrinking by the second if you’re not wearing a Personal Flotation Device.

Still think you don’t need one?

A PFD isn’t just for kayakers or kids.

It’s for anyone who’s serious about staying alive around water. Rock fishing, boat fishing, even casting from riverbanks or surf zones - every situation carries a risk. A life jacket doesn’t stop accidents. But it gives you a shot when they happen.

Rock Fishing: Unforgiving and Unpredictable

Let’s talk about the riskiest spot first. Rock fishing is wildly popular, especially in places like New Zealand and Australia, but it’s also one of the deadliest forms of recreational fishing. Slippery terrain, crashing waves, and no margin for error.

You fall in, and you’re not just wet - you’re disoriented, often injured, and dealing with cold water shock. Even if you can swim, panic and current will do their work fast.

A well-fitted PFD keeps your head above water, even if you're unconscious or winded. It buys you time. Enough time for a mate to throw a line. Enough time to get your bearings. And with many modern inflatable PFDs, you're not lugging around a bulky foam vest. You're protected, and you can still fish comfortably.

Boats, Tinnies, and Kayaks: Small Vessels, Big Risks

Small fishing vessels are especially vulnerable to flips, freak wakes, and shifting weight. It’s easy to think, “I’m just in a bay, nothing rough,” but that’s how people get complacent. A sudden movement, a gear tangle, or a mate standing up too quickly—and over you go.

If you’re fishing solo or in remote spots, a PFD isn’t optional. Other than your pair of quality fishing pliers, it’s your first line of defense. Cold shock can take your breath away. You might get tangled in line or anchor rope. Even strong swimmers can’t tread water with a gear bag or boots dragging them down.

Modern PFDs are built for this. Look for ones with integrated fishing harness points, knife tabs, and mesh for breathability. If you’re using a kayak, many even come with hydration sleeves or rod holder slots. This isn’t camping gear. It’s technical fishing wear.

Riverbanks, Estuaries, and Wading Zones

Let’s say you’re waist-deep in a flowing river, chasing trout in your waders. Sounds serene, right? Now picture slipping on a rock, your waders filling with water, and you’re suddenly 15 meters downstream with no footing and your fly rod still in your hand.

It happens. Fast.

PFDs with minimal bulk and high chest clearance are perfect for this kind of fishing. Some wading jackets now integrate low-profile inflatables or float-assist foam. That means you don’t have to sacrifice movement or your casting form to stay safe.

And if you’re in tidal areas or estuaries? Currents shift. Tides rush in. Mud flats turn into channels. It’s not just about water depth - it’s about unpredictability. A PFD turns a surprise from a threat into a problem you can manage.

Wearing It Right: PFDs and Your Fishing Gear

A PFD won’t help you if it’s in the car. Or on the boat floor. Or sitting next to your pack on the rocks. You need to wear it. That means choosing one that integrates with the way you fish.

Here’s how to do it right:

• Layer smart: If you're wearing a chest pack or vest, go for a high-cut PFD or one with front pockets. Don’t bury your tools behind it.
• Check inflation mechanisms: For inflatables, know whether it's manual or automatic. Auto is better for solo trips or dangerous surf. Manual might make more sense when wading shallow streams.
• Secure loose straps: Fishing line loves a dangling buckle. Tuck everything. No loops, no catches.
• Try before you buy: Put it on with your rod in hand. Does it restrict casting? Can you reach your net? You need to forget it’s there - until you need it.

Modern PFDs are lighter and more technical than ever. You’ll forget you’re wearing one within 15 minutes with your fishing pliers hooked on. That’s the goal so there are no excused. 

Managing Conditions: PFD as Part of the System

Good fishing is about reading the conditions - and preparing for the worst, even when chasing the best.

Wind picks up. You get further from shore. Your feet go numb standing in the surf for hours. These are slow shifts, but they stack up. Fatigue, cold, and weather creep in, and your body doesn’t always react the way you expect when something goes wrong.

A PFD doesn’t just protect you from a freak accident. It protects you from the build-up. When you’re cold, tired, and off balance, you’re more likely to fall. When you do, a PFD does the work while your brain catches up.

And in rough surf or cold water, where hypothermia can hit fast, even staying afloat while conserving energy can buy you the 15–20 minutes that make all the difference.

Final Word: It’s Not About Being Careful—It’s About Being Ready

You can do everything right and still end up in the water. That’s fishing. Unexpected happens all the time. What matters is how prepared you are when it does.

Wearing a PFD isn’t a sign you don’t know what you’re doing. It’s proof that you do.

Whether you’re perched on a slippery rock ledge, anchored in an estuary, or swinging streamers into a deep bend, the best anglers are the ones who come back safe—and fish again tomorrow.

Lawn Mower Maintenance: The Complete Guide for Grass Cutters

Discover the best practices for maintaining your lawn mower and achieving a lush, healthy lawn.

From the joys (?!) of mowing to the importance of regular maintenance, our guide covers it all. Learn how to keep your lawn mower running at its best and make mowing a breeze.

Don't let a poorly maintained lawn mower ruin your gardening experience. Follow our expert tips and tricks to make lawn mowing a pleasure.

Master the art of lawn mower maintenance and take the first step to achieving the perfect lawn!

Maintaining a lawn mower is crucial to ensure it runs smoothly and efficiently.

Here are three really important things to monitor to help keep your lawn mower in top condition:

1. Oil: Use a high-quality, four-cycle engine oil with an API service rating of SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher. SAE 30 oil is recommended for temperatures above 32 degrees Fahrenheit and SAE 5W-30 for temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the oil level before each use and add oil as needed.
2. Blade: The blade should be sharpened at least once a year, or more often if you notice it's not cutting the grass as effectively. Use a file or a blade sharpener to sharpen the blade
3. Spark Plug: Check the spark plug every 100 hours of use or at least once a year. If the electrode is worn or the insulator is cracked, it's time to replace the spark plug. Use a spark plug with the correct heat range for your mower's engine.

General Maintenance tips:

• Keep the air filter clean to ensure the engine is getting enough air.
• Check the fuel filter and replace if necessary.
• Check the fuel lines for cracks or leaks.
• Check the carburetor for clogs and clean as needed.
• Check the belts for cracks or fraying and replace if needed.
• Keep the deck clean and free of debris.
• If you have a ride on, check the tires for proper inflation.

By following these tips and tricks, you can ensure that your lawn mower runs smoothly and efficiently all season long. 

Remember to always refer to your mower's owner's manual for specific maintenance instructions.

What are the best oils to use in a gas lawnmower?

The best oils to use with a petrol lawnmower are high-quality, four-cycle engine oils with an API service rating of SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher.

The most common types of oil used for lawnmowers are SAE 30 and SAE 5W-30.

• SAE 30: This oil is recommended for temperatures above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. It is a thicker oil that provides better lubrication at higher temperatures. It is suitable for use in most lawnmowers.
• SAE 5W-30: This oil is recommended for temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. It is a thinner oil that flows more easily at lower temperatures. It also provides better cold weather starting and protection than SAE 30 oil.

It is important to check the owner's manual of your lawnmower to know the recommended oil type to use. Always be sure to use a high-quality, four-cycle engine oil with an API service rating of SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher.

It is important to note that you should never use a two-cycle oil (two stroke) in a four-cycle engine (four stroke), and vice versa. Two-cycle oil is designed to be mixed with gasoline, while four-cycle oil is not. 

Using the wrong type of oil can cause serious damage to your lawnmower's engine.

How to sharpen a lawnmower blade safely

To sharpen a lawn mower's blade  - first, make sure the lawnmower is turned off and the spark plug wire is disconnected to prevent accidental starting.

Then, use a block of wood to prop up one side of the mower deck so that the blade is exposed.

Use a file or grinder to sharpen the blade, making sure to keep your fingers and other body parts away from the cutting edge.

Balance the blade by using a blade balancer or by holding it vertically and checking for any wobbling.

Once finished, reattach the blade and reconnect the spark plug wire.

When should I change the spark plug in a petrol lawnmower?

Spark plugs in a petrol lawnmower should be changed every season or every 100 hours of use, whichever comes first.

To change the spark plug:

• Locate the spark plug, which is usually located near the top of the engine on the side opposite the air filter.
• Use a spark plug socket or an adjustable wrench to remove the spark plug.
• Take note of the gap on the old spark plug and make sure to get a new spark plug with the same gap or adjust the gap on the new spark plug.
• Screw in the new spark plug by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the spark plug with the spark plug socket or adjustable wrench, but be careful not to overtighten.
• Replace the spark plug cap back to its standard position, ensuring it is properly connected.
• Finally, check the gap again to ensure it is correct.

Boom! Your engine will be ripping up and down the yard in no time. 

How to properly store a lawnmower in the 'off-season'

A lawn mower should be stored in a dry, protected area such as a garage or shed. Before storing, it's important to follow these steps:

• Drain the fuel: Run the engine until it runs out of fuel, or use a fuel stabilizer to keep the fuel fresh.
• Clean the mower: Remove any clippings or debris from the mower deck and blades.
• Change the oil: If the oil is dirty or has been used for an extended period of time, it should be changed before storage.
• Check the air filter: Clean or replace the air filter as necessary.
• Sharpen or replace the blade: A dull blade can damage the mower and make it less effective, so it's important to have a sharp blade.
• Using a cover can help protect your lawn mower from dust, dirt and other environmental elements, especially if you're storing it outside. This will help keep it in good condition and ready for use when you need it next.
• It is important to ensure that the mower is completely dry before covering it, as moisture can cause rust and other damage. Also, the cover should be made of a durable, weather-resistant material to protect it from the elements.

How to get the best out of your lawn mower on lawns day

To mow a backyard grass lawn efficiently, follow these steps:

1. Mow when the grass is dry: It is easier to cut dry grass and it also helps to reduce the chance of clumping. Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or has just been watered.
2. Mow at the right height: Different grass types have different ideal mowing heights, so check the recommended height for your specific grass type. Generally, it is recommended to mow the lawn when it reaches 3-4 inches high, and never remove more than 1/3 of the blade length in a single mowing.
3. Use the right mower: Use a lawn mower that is appropriate for your lawn size and grass type. If you have a small lawn, a manual reel mower may be sufficient. If you have a large lawn, a gas-powered mower would be more efficient.
4. Mow in the right pattern: Start by mowing the perimeter of your lawn, then mow in a back-and-forth pattern, making sure to overlap your passes slightly. This will ensure that you cover the entire lawn and avoid missed spots.
5. Keep the blades sharp: A sharp blade will make mowing easier and give a cleaner cut to the grass. Also, it will reduce the stress on the engine, and it will make the mower more energy efficient.
6. Dispose of the clippings: Grass clippings can be left on the lawn as long as they are not too thick. However, if the clippings are too thick, it is best to remove them to prevent the lawn from being smothered.
7. Check the weather forecast: Avoid mowing when the weather is too hot, as this can stress the grass and make it more susceptible to disease. Try to mow when the temperature is cooler, such as in the early morning or evening.

How to best use a lawn mower for making mulch

To make mulch using a lawn mower, you will need a mower with a mulching capability, which is typically a mower with a special mulching blade and a mulching deck.

Start by mowing your lawn as you normally would, but make sure to set the mower's deck to its highest setting. This will allow the grass clippings to be cut into small pieces.

Once the grass is cut, lower the deck to its mulching setting and mow the lawn again. The mulching blade will chop the grass clippings into smaller pieces, which will break down faster and become mulch more quickly.

Repeat the process until you have mowed the entire lawn. The small pieces of grass clippings will fall back onto the lawn, where they will decompose and become natural mulch.

Leave the mulch on the lawn to decompose naturally. The mulch will help to retain moisture and provide nutrients to the soil, which will help the lawn to grow healthier and stronger.

If you want to use the mulch for other purposes, such as for a flower bed, you can collect it with a rake and deposit it where you wish. 

It is important to note that mowing too short or too frequently can damage your lawn, making it more prone to diseases and pests, it is also important to check the weather forecast and avoid mowing when the weather is too hot, as this can stress the grass and make it more susceptible to disease. Try to mow when the temperature is cooler, such as in the early morning or evening.

What about battery powered lawn mowers, how do I keep them ticking over nicely?

Battery-powered or cordless lawn mowers are becoming increasingly popular due to their convenience and ease of use.

However, to ensure that your cordless lawn mower performs well and lasts for a long time, it is important to follow these maintenance tips:

• A sharp blade will make mowing easier and give a cleaner cut to the grass. It will also reduce the stress on the motor and make the mower more energy efficient.
• Remove any clippings or debris from the mower deck and blades after each use.
• Charge the battery correctly: Always use the charger that came with the lawn mower and follow the manufacturer's instructions for charging. Overcharging or undercharging the battery can shorten its lifespan.
• Store the battery correctly: When the mower is not in use, store the battery in a cool, dry place. Avoid storing the battery in extreme temperatures, as this can cause damage.
• Keep an eye on the battery's performance: Over time, the battery may lose its ability to hold a charge. If this happens, it may be time to replace the battery.
• Check and clean the air filter: Clean or replace the air filter as necessary. A dirty air filter can reduce the mower's performance.
• Keep the wheels and deck in good condition: Check the wheels for wear and damage, and lubricate them if necessary. The deck should also be cleaned and lubricated to reduce friction and improve the cutting performance.
• Always read the owner's manual and follow the manufacturer's instructions for maintaining your cordless lawn mower.

lawnmower maintenance

Choosing the best Total Dissolved Solids meter (TDS)

Using a TDS Meter to Measure Water Quality

If you've had a few issues with how your water tastes, it's perhaps because there's too much of a certain kind of mineral or nitrate impacting the water quality. 

 The principal constituents found in water are usually calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium cations and carbonate, hydrogen carbonate, chloride, sulfate, and nitrate anions. 

We understand if you need to go and google exactly what a few of those things are!

 But the short of it is that if you have too many dissolved in your water, it will taste bad—and worse, harm your health. 

According to the World Health Organisation, unhealthy water can be carcinogenic, contribute to coronary disease, and increase mortality rates when TDS levels are too high. So we understand why you might be in the market for a TDS tester. 

And here's one of the best: 

  While you can use a water test kit to check for common contaminants, a Total Dissolved Solids meter (TDS) helps you measure the concentration of those dissolved substances. 

This is essential when evaluating how well your water filtration system is performing, such as a reverse osmosis filter. A TDS meter is simple to use, and most give real-time readings within seconds. 

They're a crucial tool if you're treating your water at home, especially if you're concerned about heavy metals, mineral buildup, or general taste issues. TDS meters estimate the amount of dissolved solids by measuring the electrical conductivity of the sample. 

The principle is straightforward: the more ions present, the more conductive the water. The result is shown in parts per million (PPM). A reading of 1 ppm means 1 milligram of dissolved solids per kilogram of water.

 

So, What Then Is a Good or Bad TDS Reading?

The World Health Organization offers this guideline:

• TDS level less than 300 mg/liter: Excellent
• 300–600 mg/liter: Good
• 600–900 mg/liter: Fair
• 900–1200 mg/liter: Poor
• More than 1200 mg/liter: Unacceptable

This scale mainly reflects *aesthetic quality*—taste, smell, mouthfeel. It doesn’t account for the toxicity of individual substances like nitrates or arsenic, which may be harmful even at low levels. That’s why TDS is a general indicator, not a health guarantee. If you're installing a new filtration system, always measure before and after. 

Write down your baseline so you can evaluate whether your system is working effectively.

Fish Tanks and Measuring TDS

TDS meters are useful for aquarium owners too. High TDS levels can stress fish and promote algae blooms. 

You want to keep water within a healthy range, especially in freshwater setups. TDS meters can help you track when to top up or do partial water changes. 

For freshwater tanks, aim for 130–195 ppm unless you're keeping a species with specific needs.

How to Calibrate a Digital TDS Meter

Like with a pH meter used in brewing, calibration ensures accuracy. Most meters come factory-calibrated, but over time, they can drift due to residue buildup or sensor wear. 

 Use a known calibration solution to check the meter’s accuracy and follow the manual’s instructions closely. Here's a video guide on using calibration solutions properly:

 

Does a TDS Meter Need Automatic Temperature Control (ATC)?

Yes—if accuracy matters. ATC compensates for how temperature affects water’s electrical conductivity. Without it, readings could be misleading, especially if you're testing warm tap water or water straight from a filtration system. If you're investing in a meter, look for:

• ATC capability
• Clear LCD or LED display
• Calibration function or included solution
• Waterproof probe or casing (for durability)
• Measurement range at least up to 9999 ppm

You may also wish to test pH levels alongside TDS for a full picture of your water quality.

Final Thought: What to Look For When Buying a TDS Meter

Not all TDS meters are created equal. If you're buying one, especially online, consider:

• Accuracy tolerance (±2% or better is ideal)
• Battery life and auto-off function
• Ease of use: single-button operation is a plus
• Trusted brand or strong user reviews
• If it measures additional parameters (like temp or EC)

Buying a TDS meter is an inexpensive way to take control of your water quality—whether you’re drinking it, brewing with it, or using it to keep your aquarium pristine.

calibration, total dissolved solids, total dissolved solids meter, water filter, water filtration system, water quality tester