The four basic rules of chainsaw chain maintenance

Your chainsaw's chain health is essential to a clean, successful cut.

Seems obvious, right?

Think of your chainsaw as a rock band, with the chain as the lead guitarist. If the strings are out of tune, the whole performance falls apart. The condition of your chainsaw’s chain isn’t a trivial matter—it’s the heart of the tool, determining whether you glide through timber or struggle to make the cut.

Much like a razor blade or a seasoned bluesman’s slide guitar, a sharp, well-maintained chain is the essence of precision. It’s what allows your chainsaw to slice through wood with ease rather than hack it to pieces.

Neglect the chain, though, and trouble begins. 

Improper sharpening, incorrect depth gauge settings, or poor chain tension aren’t just small issues—they’re glaring mistakes that can ruin your cutting experience. 

The result? 

Increased risk of kickbacks, stalling, and the unpleasant buzz of an unbalanced saw, signaling “unsafe.”

It’s like cranking up the amps in a band but skipping the soundcheck. Anyone can tune up their chainsaw with basic know-how, but only if they treat it with the attention it deserves.

Like Hurley from Lost would say, "dude, you gotta maintain your chainsaw".

The Four Basic rules of chainsaw chain maintenance

There are four simple rules that will ensure that your chainsaw chain performs up to spec.

The operator should keep the chain:

1. Properly oiled; 
2. Correctly tensioned correctly
3. Sharp, cutter angles correctly made
4. The depth gauge height should be consistently and accurately set.

Let's work through these now.

A chainsaw chain needs to be properly oiled

The chainsaw's guide bar and chain are designed to be constantly supplied with oil. It's just how they work. If they did not get oil, the parts would overheat and seize and not cut properly. 

One should then regularly check that the chain oiling system is supplying oil. We recommend you use oil designed for chains and chain bars - not waste oil from other engines.

Chainsaw oils are designed to stick to the chain, whereas used car part oil has no such properties and is probably filled with impurities and metal that could damage your gear.

A correctly tensioned chain is a safe chain

At best, a loose chain is not cutting properly and at worst, it is likely to fly off the chain bar - causing you to lose time putting it back on and also run the risk of injury to hands or legs (unless you are wearing safety gloves or chaps!)

A loose chain also increases the potential chance of a kick back from happening. And no one wants a kickback blade to the face. 

An incorrectly tensioned chain will also place more pressure on the saw's sprocket, causing it to wear.

A properly tensioned chain should be adjusted to make contact all around the guide bar. It needs to fit snugly, yet allow easy movement when pulled from the chainsaw body toward the tip of the guide bar.

Some tensionion tips:

• Tension the chain prior to each chopping session by adjust the tensioning screw with a screw driver until the chain fits snugly against the bar yet moves easily by hand. Tension the chain often, or at each occasion of refuelling over the course of a day.
• Never tension your chain right after cutting wood.
• A chain tensioned while hot can cool and then shrink, causing tension to be too tight which will break shit. Trust me on that...
• Let the chain cool first before doing anything.
• It's a smart idea to wear protective gloves, especially if you have diligently sharpened your chain or it's a brand new chain - those things are factory sharp!

Here's a handy video which demonstrates how to correctly tension the saw:

A sharp cutter makes a sharp wood cut

To ensure your chain cutters remain well-maintained, damage-free, and sharp, always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for your specific chain model. Begin with a round file attached to a handle, and use a file guide to maintain precise depth and angle during sharpening. The goal is to keep the cutters uniform in length and shape throughout the chain's lifespan.

Here's a straightforward approach to chain sharpening:

1. Attach the file to the file guide to ensure it maintains the correct angle and depth.
2. Start filing from the inside of each cutter to the outside, using firm and smooth strokes.
3. Work systematically, sharpening one side of the chain before switching to the other side to maintain balance.
4. Inspect each cutter as you go; if any are damaged, file them down to match the others in length and shape to ensure consistent cutting efficiency.
5. After several sharpening sessions, check and adjust the cutters to maintain uniformity and optimal performance.

Check out this video tutorial which shows how to sharpen the chain:

The correct depth gauge setting 

This is a part of chain maintenance that is easy to overlook or ignore but as always, doing it right will mean a good and safe cut.

The depth gauge controls the thickness of the chip the cutter will remove from your wood target.

The basic tools required for this task are a flat-file and the correct depth gauge tool as recommended by the manufacturer of your device.

To ensure the correct gauge once places the depth gauge tool in position over the cutter. The excess is filed off from the inside of the cutter outwards.

It's good practice to check the depth gauges after 4 or 5 sharpenings.

Another really important component of chainsaw maintenance is ensuring you keep the chain and bar well oiled.

Remember to regularly check the spark plug for build up.

Consider using the world famous White Ox logging gloves as you work.

And once you're done for the day, catch up on some Star Trek trivia. Or why not learn how to fix a flooded chainsaw engine.

chain, chainsaw maintenance, cutter, sharpen a chainsaw

Chainsaw Maintenance Tips: Keep Your Saw Running Like New for Years

You’ve felt the rumble, the powerful hum of a chainsaw in your hands as it slices through wood like butter. For a split second, everything is in tune – you, the saw, and the forest around you. But then… the dreaded sputter. The engine starts to slow, the blade struggles, and you know, deep down, that your chainsaw is trying to tell you something. This is where the unspoken art of chainsaw maintenance comes into play.

I’ve been there. After a long day’s work in the woods, my chainsaw once stopped cold, leaving me stranded with a pile of firewood staring me down. 

Was it the fuel? 

The chain? 

Or something deeper? 

It was the air filter. 

Clogged up, suffocating the engine. It was a rookie mistake, one that could’ve been avoided with a little more care. 

But, as they say, experience is the best teacher.

Maintaining your chainsaw isn’t just about keeping it running; it’s about ensuring that every pull of the trigger is a step towards safety and reliability. A well-maintained chainsaw is your best tool for the job – cutting clean, fast, and safe, without any of the sudden breakdowns that ruin your day (and your woodpile).

This guide is your personal chainsaw bible. I’ll walk you through the essential maintenance tasks that can make the difference between a chainsaw that hums like a top and one that leaves you in the dust. We’ll tackle sharpening, fuel mixtures, air filters, and prevent those pesky issues like flooding and kickback before they even have a chance to get started.

 

Fuel Mixture: The Lifeblood of Your Chainsaw

Imagine this: You’re halfway through a cutting project, the sun is shining, and your chainsaw is humming along beautifully. Then, just as you're getting into the groove, it sputters and dies. You pull the starter cord – nothing. You check the fuel. Uh-oh. You’ve made a rookie mistake: the wrong fuel mixture.

I’ve had that moment more times than I care to admit. You see, fueling your chainsaw isn’t as simple as topping it off with any gas you have lying around. For a 2-stroke engine (which most chainsaws run on), the fuel and oil need to be mixed in the proper ratio. If that ratio is even slightly off, you’re looking at engine problems, poor performance, and possibly even engine failure.

Here’s the deal: Chainsaw engines require a specific ratio of gasoline to oil, typically somewhere around 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil). Some older models might need a slightly richer mix (like 40:1), but the key here is consistency. Using the wrong ratio or type of oil can make your engine run hot, lose power, or – at worst – seize up entirely. I've seen it happen to others, and I’ve even had it happen to me once, in a rush to finish a job.

So, how do you get it right?

Step-by-Step Fuel Mixing Guide:

1. Check the Manufacturer’s Guidelines: Always refer to your chainsaw's manual for the recommended fuel-to-oil ratio. Some chainsaws even have a sticker or label near the gas cap that lists the correct mix.
2. Choose the Right Oil: Chainsaw oil is not the same as regular motor oil. You need high-quality 2-cycle engine oil. It’s formulated to burn cleanly and protect the engine. Using car oil or anything else can lead to unnecessary wear.
3. Use the Right Container: For best results, get a fuel mixing container with measurement marks. These containers ensure you get the exact ratio every time.
4. Measure Carefully: Add the correct amount of oil to the container, then top it off with gasoline. For example, if you’re mixing 50:1, that means for every gallon of gas, you’ll add 2.6 ounces of oil. Simple math, but essential for engine health.
5. Shake It Up: Once you’ve added both components, close the container tightly and shake it vigorously for about 10 seconds. This ensures the oil and gas are mixed thoroughly. Don’t skip this step. A well-mixed fuel blend means better combustion and less wear on the engine.

Pro Tip:

Use fresh fuel. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially if it’s been sitting around for months. Old fuel can cause poor engine performance, rough starts, or even clog up your carburetor. I learned this the hard way on a particularly stubborn project one summer – nothing like an engine sputtering to life just to quit 10 minutes later. After that, I always make sure my fuel is freshly mixed.

How to Store Fuel Properly

Once you’ve got that perfect fuel mix, don’t just leave it lying around. Store it in a clean, sealed container in a cool, dry place. And remember – don’t store mixed fuel for too long. A good rule of thumb is to use it within 30 days. Over time, the oil and gas can separate, and the performance of your chainsaw will suffer.

Fueling your chainsaw may seem like a small thing, but it’s the engine’s lifeblood. A proper fuel mixture ensures smooth running, prevents overheating, and extends the life of your chainsaw. Just like with sharpening, getting this step right is essential for getting the most out of your saw – and keeping it in good working order for years to come. After all, a chainsaw with the wrong fuel mixture isn’t just inefficient; it’s a ticking time bomb waiting to burn out. Stay ahead of the game, and your chainsaw will keep firing up with power when you need it most.

Air Filter Cleaning: Ensuring Optimal Airflow and Engine Health

When I first started working with chainsaws, I didn’t give much thought to the air filter. It wasn’t until a job went south—literally, my chainsaw stalled in the middle of a huge project—that I realized how critical this often-overlooked part is. The air filter is essentially the lungs of your chainsaw. Without it, the engine can’t breathe properly, and that means poor performance, overheating, and potentially expensive damage.

The job of the air filter is to keep dust, debris, and other particles from entering the carburetor and engine. Without it, the engine would suck in all kinds of gunk, reducing its lifespan and messing with performance. A clogged filter? That’s a one-way ticket to engine failure. Trust me, you don’t want to go there.

 

Here’s how you can ensure your chainsaw’s air filter stays in prime condition:

Step-by-Step Air Filter Cleaning Guide:

1. Turn Off the Chainsaw: Always start with a cool engine. Never attempt to clean or inspect the air filter while the chainsaw is hot.
2. Locate the Air Filter: Typically, the air filter is housed near the carburetor, but its exact location will vary depending on your saw’s make and model. Refer to the owner’s manual if you can’t find it easily.
3. Remove the Air Filter Cover: Use a screwdriver or just your hands (depending on your model) to remove the air filter cover. Be careful not to damage the cover during removal.
4. Inspect the Air Filter: Take a close look at the filter. Is it visibly dirty or clogged? If it looks fairly clean and isn’t clogged with dust or debris, a simple cleaning will do. If it’s too dirty or damaged, it’s time for a replacement.
5. Clean the Air Filter: If the filter is foam, wash it with soap and water. Gently squeeze it out—don’t wring it out—and let it dry completely before putting it back. If it’s a paper filter, you can tap it gently to dislodge the debris, but avoid using water. For both types, you can use compressed air to blow out the dust. Just be sure not to tear or damage the filter while cleaning.
6. Reassemble: Once the filter is dry and clean (or replaced), carefully put it back in place and reattach the cover. Make sure everything is secure, and your chainsaw is ready to fire up again.

Clean your air filter after every 5 to 10 hours of use, or more often if you’re working in particularly dusty or dirty conditions. A clogged filter doesn’t just hurt the engine—it can also reduce the amount of fuel being mixed with air, leading to poor engine performance. I've learned this the hard way on multiple occasions, and I always make sure the air filter gets checked before any long day of work.

When to Replace the Air Filter:

Sometimes cleaning isn’t enough. If your filter is damaged or too clogged to clean properly, it’s time to replace it. Air filters are relatively inexpensive, and replacing them regularly will save you from costly engine repairs down the road. A good rule of thumb? If the foam is worn out or if it can’t be cleaned thoroughly, invest in a new one.

The air filter is a small but vital part of your chainsaw’s engine health. A clean filter ensures proper airflow, prevents debris from entering the engine, and helps maintain consistent power. Keeping it in check is a simple yet crucial step in the regular maintenance of your saw. After all, a chainsaw that can’t breathe properly isn’t going to get very far.

Preventing Common Chainsaw Issues: Flooding and Kickback

There are few things more frustrating than trying to start a chainsaw only to have it flood out on you. Or worse, feeling the sudden jolt of a kickback while you're in the middle of a cut. These are the kinds of issues that can completely ruin your day – and potentially leave you with an injury.

 

Flooding: The Silent Killer

Flooding happens when there’s too much fuel in the engine, often because of improper starting procedures. If you’re not careful, the engine can drown in its own fuel, leaving you stuck in the middle of a job with a saw that won’t start.

Here’s the thing: flooding is usually caused by either over-pulling the starter cord or failing to set the choke properly. I’ve done both—too many times. But once you know how to start your flooded chainsaw correctly, it becomes second nature.

How to Prevent Flooding:

• Don’t Over-Pull: Pulling the starter cord too many times can flood the engine. If your chainsaw isn’t starting, take a moment to check the choke position before trying again.
• Check the Choke: The choke should be in the “closed” position for cold starts, but make sure to open it once the chainsaw warms up. Leaving it closed will flood the engine.
• Wait Between Attempts: If your chainsaw is flooded, give it a break. Let the fuel evaporate before trying to start it again. You can pull the starter cord once or twice in the “open choke” position to clear out any excess fuel.

By following these simple steps, you’ll avoid the frustration of a flooded chainsaw and keep it running smoothly throughout the day.

Kickback: A Dangerous, Preventable Risk

Kickback is a chainsaw’s most dangerous trait. If you’ve ever experienced it, you know how quickly a saw can jump back toward you. The force is powerful enough to cause serious injury if you're not prepared. Understanding why kickback happens—and how to prevent it—is essential for your safety. I’ve had a close call myself, but I was lucky to be wearing my chainsaw chaps and gloves. That extra protection saved me from what could’ve been a serious accident.

Kickback occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar strikes an object or gets pinched, causing the saw to suddenly jump upward and toward you. The key to preventing this is understanding where the risks lie and how to avoid them.

How to Prevent Kickback:

• Use the Right Technique: Always cut with the lower part of the chainsaw bar, never the tip. If you need to make cuts with the tip, be extra careful and use the appropriate body stance to avoid putting yourself in a vulnerable position.
• Keep the Chain Brake Engaged: Ensure that the chain brake is engaged when you're starting the chainsaw. The chain brake is a safety feature designed to stop the chain instantly if there’s a sudden kickback. Don’t skip this crucial step.
• Check the Chain Tension: A loose chain is one of the major causes of kickback. Always check your chain’s tension before starting to work. A properly tensioned chain will grip better and avoid jerking movements that can trigger kickback.
• Wear Protective Gear: Protective gear such as gloves, chaps, and a helmet with a face shield is an absolute must. Even if you're just doing a light job, you never know when the saw might kick back unexpectedly.

Kickback may seem like an inevitable part of chainsaw use, but by taking precautions and using proper techniques, you can dramatically reduce the risk. I can’t stress this enough: Always pay attention to your saw’s behavior and never get too comfortable, no matter how experienced you are. A moment of inattention could change everything.

Routine Upkeep: The Key to Longevity

There’s a saying in the chainsaw world: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen someone neglect basic upkeep only to end up with a saw that won’t start or, worse, an engine that’s completely fried. It’s not just about fixing problems when they arise; it’s about preventing them from happening in the first place. A chainsaw that gets regular attention is one that will keep running smoothly and safely for years to come.

Let’s be honest: nobody wants to deal with a chainsaw that’s constantly breaking down. That’s where routine maintenance comes in. It’s not difficult, but it’s necessary. And when you stick to a schedule, you’ll be amazed at how much longer your saw will last. You’ll also avoid those costly repairs that always seem to come at the most inconvenient time.

How to Set Up a Routine Maintenance Schedule:

Here’s what I recommend based on my own experience. Think of this as your chainsaw’s “health checkup.” Just like you’d go for an annual physical, your chainsaw needs regular attention too.

• After Every Use: Clean the chainsaw and wipe down the bar and chain. Remove any debris or sawdust that has built up. This not only keeps the saw in working order but also prevents damage from wood resin or dirt clogging the chain and bar.
• Every 5-10 Hours of Use: Inspect the air filter and fuel mixture. These are key to keeping your chainsaw running efficiently. If the air filter is clogged, clean it, or replace it if necessary. If the fuel mix looks old or has separated, dump it and mix up a fresh batch.
• Every 20 Hours of Use: Check the chain tension. A loose chain can lead to dangerous kickback, so ensure it’s properly tightened. Also, check the spark plug for wear and replace it if it looks worn out. A fresh spark plug ensures optimal engine performance.
• Every 50 Hours of Use: Inspect the carburetor and ensure the engine isn’t running too lean or too rich. Adjust the carburetor if necessary, but if you’re unsure how to do this, it might be best to have a professional take a look. Also, check the fuel filter to make sure it’s not clogged with debris.

How to Store Your Chainsaw Properly:

When the job’s done, and it’s time to pack up, you need to make sure your chainsaw is stored properly—especially during off-seasons or long breaks between uses. Storing your chainsaw incorrectly can lead to rust, corrosion, and engine problems down the road.

• Drain the Fuel: Before storing, always drain the fuel from your chainsaw. Fuel left in the tank can deteriorate over time and gum up the carburetor. If you’re storing your saw for a long period, use a fuel stabilizer in the gas tank to keep it fresh.
• Clean and Lubricate: After draining the fuel, clean your chainsaw thoroughly and lubricate the chain and bar. This will prevent rust and keep the moving parts from seizing up during the off-season.
• Keep It in a Dry Place: Store your chainsaw in a cool, dry area away from moisture. A chainsaw stored in a damp environment can rust quickly, damaging the engine and metal parts.

How to sharpen a chainsaw blade correctly

Sharpening Your Chainsaw: A Step Toward Effortless Cutting

Sharpening your chainsaw is crucial for maintaining cutting efficiency. A dull chain increases the effort needed to cut and can cause uneven cuts, which puts unnecessary strain on the engine. The most obvious sign your chain needs sharpening is when you have to force the saw through wood or when the cuts become rough. 

A sharp chain ensures smoother, faster cuts with less strain on your saw and your body, while also reducing the risk of dangerous kickback.

To sharpen the chain, you’ll need a round file or a chainsaw sharpening tool. 

The angle of the file should typically be between 25 and 35 degrees, depending on your saw’s make and model. Hold the file in the correct position and move it in one direction from the base to the tip of the tooth. 

Be sure each tooth is evenly sharpened. 

Don't forget to check the depth gauges, as they can wear down unevenly, which affects cutting efficiency.

Chainsaw Maintenance for the Long Haul

There’s no denying it: chainsaw maintenance can seem like a lot of work, especially when you’re just eager to get to your next project. But if there’s one thing I can tell you from years of experience, it’s that the chainsaws that are cared for the best are the ones that serve you the longest and most reliably.

By following the simple steps laid out in this guide—sharpening the chain, getting the fuel mixture right, cleaning the air filter, and keeping an eye on issues like flooding and kickback—you’ll be able to keep your chainsaw running like new. It’s not just about avoiding breakdowns; it’s about ensuring that every pull of the starter cord feels effortless and that your saw always performs at its peak.

Guide to Safe Paint Stripping: Techniques and Precautions

Paint stripping can be a dirty job, but someone’s got to do it. 

Whether you’re restoring a vintage piece of furniture, refreshing a room, or tackling a metal or wooden surface, the right paint stripper can save you hours of frustration. 

But with great power comes great responsibility. Paint strippers—especially those containing harsh chemicals like methylene chloride or lye—can be incredibly effective, but they also come with safety risks if not used properly. 

This guide will walk you through the best practices for using paint strippers safely, protecting both your health and your project.

Choosing the Right Paint Stripper for Your Project

Before you even get started, it’s crucial to choose the right paint stripper for the task at hand. There are three main types: solvent-based, caustic-based, and bio-based. 

Solvent-based strippers (containing methylene chloride) are powerful but highly toxic. 

Caustic-based strippers (containing sodium hydroxide) are great for paint on wood and metal but can be harsh on your skin. Bio-based strippers are less aggressive and more environmentally friendly, though they may take longer to work. 

We say go caustic but follow best practice safety guide.

Preparing Your Workspace: Set the Stage for Safety

A safe paint stripping process starts with the right workspace. Always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors, or in a space with good airflow, like a garage with open windows or a dedicated workshop with exhaust fans. 

Keep all windows open and consider using a fan to help direct fumes away from you. Avoid stripping paint near heat sources or open flames, as most paint strippers are highly flammable. Lay down protective drop cloths or plastic sheets to catch any drips or splatters. 

Ensure that all furniture and items not being stripped are covered or removed from the area as there is nothing worse than dropping a splash accidentaly on your mother in law's table. Trust me on that, there is nothing worse...

Proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Is a Must

Safety gear is your first line of defense.

Never skip this step, as paint strippers contain chemicals that can cause skin irritation, respiratory issues, and even long-term health problems.

Always wear the following PPE:

• Chemical-resistant gloves: Rubber or nitrile gloves will protect your hands from exposure.
• Protective goggles or face shield: These will prevent any accidental splashes from getting into your eyes.
• Long sleeves and pants: Cover your skin completely to avoid any contact with the stripper.
• Respirator mask: If you’re working with a solvent-based stripper, wearing a respirator mask is essential to avoid inhaling toxic fumes. At least open a window up!

Applying the Paint Stripper: Precision and Patience

Once you’re suited up and ready to go, it’s time to apply the stripper. Use a paintbrush or a scraper to apply the stripper generously to the surface, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Some paint strippers require multiple layers or need to be applied in a specific pattern.

Apply in a well-controlled area to avoid spills or over-application.

Allow the stripper to sit for the recommended time, typically between 15 minutes and an hour, depending on the type of stripper and paint you’re dealing with. The paint should begin to bubble or lift away from the surface.

If it doesn’t, you may need to apply more stripper or leave it on for longer.

Scraping the Paint: The Right Technique

After the stripper has had time to work, the paint will begin to lift off in sheets or bubbles. Use a plastic scraper or putty knife to gently lift the paint from the surface. 

Be careful not to gouge or scratch the underlying material, especially if you’re working with wood. 

Start at one edge and work your way across the area, scraping in small sections. For more stubborn spots, reapply stripper and allow it to sit for a little longer.

Use a wire brush or steel wool for intricate areas, but proceed gently to avoid damaging the surface.

Cleaning Up: Thorough and Careful

Once the paint is removed, it’s time to clean up. Use water and soap to wash off any remaining stripper from the surface, but be sure to wear gloves during this process as well.

For stubborn residues, you can use mineral spirits or a specialized cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. Rinse the area thoroughly, especially if you're working with wood, as residual chemicals can affect finishes or new paint.

Don’t forget to clean your tools as well, especially brushes or scrapers that were in contact with the stripper. Dispose of any rags or towels used in cleanup carefully, as they may be flammable or contaminated with stripper residue.

Aftercare: Restoring Your Surface

After stripping the paint, some surfaces may need a little TLC (don't go chasing waterfalls!) to get back to their original condition. If you’ve worked on wood, you might find that the surface is rough or splintered. Sanding is often the next step to smooth it out and prepare it for refinishing.

If you've worked on metal, you may need to apply a rust inhibitor before repainting to prevent corrosion. Make sure to follow the appropriate finishing steps for your specific project, whether that means sanding, priming, or applying a new coat of paint.

Any excuse to get the sander out is a good one I say!

Does methylated spirits remove paint?

What if the secret to peeling away layers of old paint isn’t found in some expensive, chemical-heavy solution, but in a humble, often overlooked household solvent?

Methylated spirits—denatured alcohol in its simplest form—has long been a go-to for cleaning, disinfecting, and even stripping stubborn ink stains.

But what about paint?

Consider this: the right application of methylated spirits can break down the bonds in certain paints with surprising ease.

Whether you're restoring a piece of furniture or dealing with a quick touch-up, this everyday solvent could be your new best friend. So, before you reach for that harsh chemical stripper, let’s explore how methylated spirits could save you time, money, and effort.

Does Methylated Spirits Remove Paint?

Methylated spirits can effectively remove paint in certain circumstances, though it depends on the type of paint and the surface.

It works best on water-based paints (like acrylic or latex), as it can break down the bond between the paint and the surface.

This solvent works by breaking down the chemical structure of the paint, which allows it to lift off more easily. Methylated spirits are less effective on oil-based paints because they don't dissolve the resins in the same way, but it can still help soften the paint, making it easier to scrape off.

How Methylated Spirits Interacts with Paint: The Science

The main ingredient in methylated spirits is ethanol, which is a solvent capable of disrupting the molecular structure of various substances, including paint.

For water-based paints, ethanol disrupts the hydrogen bonds between the water molecules and the binder agents in the paint, causing the paint to loosen. In oil-based paints, however, the interaction is less effective, since oil-based formulas are designed to be resistant to alcohol.

The alcohol can, however, break down some of the oil's outer layers, making it easier to chip off, though this requires more effort and may not work in all cases.

The Best Way to Use Methylated Spirits for Paint Removal

To remove paint with methylated spirits, first ensure the surface is clean and dry. Pour a small amount of methylated spirits onto a clean cloth or sponge and gently rub the painted area.

For best results, work in small sections, allowing the spirits to sit on the paint for a minute or two before attempting to remove it. Be patient and avoid scrubbing too aggressively, as this could damage the surface underneath.

If the paint does not come off easily, you may need to repeat the process or use a plastic scraper to lift off the softened paint. Always wear gloves and ensure good ventilation to avoid inhaling fumes.

Alternative Methods for Removing Paint from Wood

When it comes to removing paint from wood surfaces, there are other effective methods. For larger areas or stubborn paint, you can use a commercial paint stripper, which is formulated to dissolve paint more efficiently. Heat guns are also a popular tool, as they can soften the paint, making it easier to scrape off.

If you prefer a more natural approach, citrus-based paint removers are a safe, biodegradable alternative. Sanding is another option, particularly if you're dealing with a small area or want to avoid using chemicals altogether. Just be aware that sanding can be time-consuming and may leave scratches if not done carefully.

Removing Paint from Metal Surfaces

When dealing with metal surfaces, such as steel or aluminum, the best method for paint removal varies depending on the type of metal and the kind of paint. Methylated spirits can work on water-based paints on metal, but you may have better results with a stronger solvent like acetone or a commercial paint remover specifically designed for metal.

If the paint is old and brittle, a heat gun or a wire brush may be necessary. For tougher jobs, sandblasting or using a chemical stripper can help get into the crevices of the metal, particularly for intricate designs.

There's a lot to be said for using acid on paint too...

Considerations for Sensitive or Delicate Surfaces

While methylated spirits can be useful, it’s important to be cautious when working with delicate surfaces like plastics, varnishes, or certain types of wood finishes. Methylated spirits can potentially damage these surfaces by stripping away their protective coatings or causing discoloration. Always test the solvent in a hidden spot to see how the surface reacts. 

If the surface is too sensitive for alcohol, consider using a gentler paint removal method such as a solvent-free gel stripper, or opt for a more mechanical approach like scraping.

Can I add two stroke oil to a 4 stroke lawnmower?

Is it safe to add two stroke oil to a 4 stroke engine?

So I recently bought a brand new lawnmower. It had a Briggs and Stratton engine which was a real selling point.

As I was in the store, I grabbed some oil as I figured the oil sump was probably empty.

Turns out I was right, as there was a big yellow warning sticker on the engine to remind the user to add oil.

To actually add 4 stroke oil.

 

That made me take note as I had bought only 2 stroke oil as that's what I had been adding to my old Briggs and Stratton engine until the casing gave way due to rust and I could no longer safely push the mower (see this picture).

So Maybe that wasn't the smartest idea in the world!

Given it was a brand new engine, what should I do? Use the recommended oil of course!

But I am not a smart man, Jenny. 

I wasn't going to drive all the way back to the store to grab the oil as that would have taken an hour and I really wanted to cut the lawn iwth my new mower, so I'd thought I'd just grab some 4 stroke oil from the petrol station down the road.

They had none.

Nor did the other one across the road.

Nor did the supermarket.

So screw it I thought and added the two stroke to the brand new engine.

And you know what happened?

Nothing but the grass was cut.

The engine didn't smoke and it started the first time which is simply a great feeling when you've just laid out some serious cash for your first ever brand new lawnmower!

Cool story bro but your example doesn't mean much...

Two-stroke engines and four-stroke engines operate on distinct principles, and understanding their differences requires a bit of technical insight.

In a two-stroke engine, the combustion and exhaust cycle is completed in just two strokes of the piston. This means that both the intake and exhaust functions occur simultaneously, allowing the engine to complete a full cycle every two strokes. This results in more power output for its size, as the engine can fire once every revolution of the crankshaft.

In contrast, a four-stroke engine completes its cycle in four strokes of the piston: intake, compression, power, and exhaust. The engine fires once every two revolutions of the crankshaft, which is why four-stroke engines are generally more fuel-efficient and produce less pollution compared to two-stroke engines.

The key difference between the two engine types is the lubrication system. 

In a four-stroke engine, the oil is stored in a sump system, which is separate from the fuel. The oil lubricates the moving parts of the engine, and the fuel remains pure for combustion. In a two-stroke engine, the oil is mixed directly with the fuel, providing lubrication as the fuel is burned.

Adding two-stroke oil to a four-stroke engine is not a viable long-term solution.

Two-stroke oil is designed to burn along with the fuel, and its composition includes additives that are necessary for the high temperatures and pressures in two-stroke systems. These additives are not suitable for the separate lubrication system in four-stroke engines. 

Additionally, the presence of oil in the combustion process of a four-stroke engine can lead to excessive smoke, carbon buildup, and long-term engine damage.

It's for this reason that you should indeed follow the engine manufacturer's advice and use 4 stroke oil in a 4 stroke engine.

Sure, the 2 stroke works in a pinch, but for the long-term efficiency and performance, the 4 stroke oil (SAE 30W) is the way to go.

If you suddenly feel you need to buy some 4 stroke oil, check out some options on Amazon.

engine maintenace, four stoke, lawnmower maintenance, oil, two stroke

Guide: >> How to choose the best oil for your lawn mower

How to choose the best oil for your lawn mower

Just as you should regularly change the oil in your car or truck or chainsaw, the same should be done for your lawnmower.

If you want to have the best looking lawns in the street, you'll need your lawnmower to have a sharp blade and to be filled with the best oil so that while you are pushing the damn thing, the engine operates well and gives a long lifetime of service.

You could be tempted to think of your lawnmower as being 'just a lawnmower' so any kind of automotive car oil will do but that could mean the difference between extending the life of your lawn mower or causing it to clog and become inoperable. This is especially so if your mower doesn't get used very often. 

So if you want the 'good oil' on what to put in your grass cutter, read on.

Type of Oil	Reason to Use	Brand Example
5W30 Synthetic	Operates well in most outdoor power equipment; suitable for a range of temperatures.	Toro Synthetic Oil
SAE 30W	Specifically designed for small engines; reliable in moderate temperatures.	Briggs and Stratton SAE 30W
10W40	Can be used in small engines without increasing consumption; good for varying temperatures.	Amsoil 10W40
Small Engine 30W	Specifically formulated for small engines, ensuring optimal performance.	Briggs and Stratton Small Engine 30W

What kind of oil do I need to use in my lawnmower?

The temperature of the climate in which you will operate the lawnmower will have an influence on your oil needs.

Lawnmower engine experts Briggs and Stratton advise that "Engines on most outdoor power equipment operate well with 5W30 Synthetic oil. 

For equipment operated in hot temperatures, Vanguard 15W50 Synthetic oil provides the best protection."

What that means for you as the oil user is that you need to check what range your engine will run on. The easiest way to do this is to check your engine's user manual for the manufacturer's recommendation. If you have lost the manual or never had one, then use a search engine to find a PDF of it. 

A general rule of thumb though is that engines on most outdoor power equipment operate well with 5W30 Synthetic oil.

Here's a handy guide produced by the engineers at Briggs and Stratton to help you decide:

Once you have found the right kind of oil, it's now time to consider what brand of oil you want to use. 

Cheap and cheerful or bespoke oil made for an exact kind of engine? 

We typically recommend you avoid the cheapest range of any tool or safety gear or oil and most certainly do the same with lawnmower oil - we suggest you used tried and trusted brands - because these oils have been road-tested in many machines being pushed many thousands of miles. 

If those brands didn't cut it, they wouldn't survive in the market. If you don't believe me, read this tale of how the Slitz company turned a quality beer into a joke and ran their brand into the ground.

One rule of thumb to bear in mind is that the older your engine is, it's more likely that it will suit the traditional SAE30 oil ranges.

Recommended oil: Briggs and Stratton Small Engine 30W

If you want tried, trusted and true, Briggs and Stratton oil is for you. 

There's a reason this is one of the world's best known brands:

Quality.

Briggs and Stratton is arguably the biggest named player in the lawnmower engine market (Husqvarna is probably second). Their engines are known for 'going and going' so much so that several other 'big name brands' simply use the Briggs and Stratton engine on their own branded push machines as a selling point.

So, the biggest name in lawnmower technology is sure to have a quality oil product for their machines and their version of 30W for small engines is most likely what your engine would benefit from.

We think this review from a genuine user on Amazon is just perfect:

"Bought a brand new lawnmower, and didn't want hubs to blow this one up too because he forgot to put oil in it."

Classic and it's always worth a reminder that if buying a new lawnmower, you need to add oil before you use it or you will destroy the engine.

Order some oil on Amazon.

Can I use synthetic oil in my lawnmower?

Yes, you can use synthetic oil in a lawnmower. Oils like Amsoil are designed for more modern engines.

Synthetic oil is a small engine lubricant full of chemical compounds that are artificially made using chemically modified petroleum components.

The benefit of using synthetic oil is they tend to offer better viscosity, wear and deposit control, and low-temperature fluidity.

This means that if you regularly use synthetic oil in your lawnmower (over the long term) then you greatly increase the chances of long service life and reduce the need to replace your lawnmower at year 6 instead of year 10 (excuse the hyperbole!).

So the regular use of synthetic oils in your engine reduces the chances of it failing and thus in the process, extends its service life.

The only real downside to using this kind of oil is that it is usually priced significantly higher than standard oils.

Check out this example from Pennzoil for example, their 530-30 Full Synthetic can price over 50 bucks!

Using Toro Synthetic oil with a lawnmower

Designed to work across a range of extreme conditions, Toro synthetic oil will handle the heat and the cold to help you get your lawns cut.

It will work especially well with new model mowers that are designed to work with this type of oil.

Toro is a massive brand worldwide, in addition, to push lawn mowers they produce golf cars, ride-on mowers, spray equipment, diggers, bunk rakes, and top dressers.

So they know engines and they know oil so you can be sure the oil is engineered and tested to meet the needs of their machines.

This means due to its quality, Toro oil will do most lawn mowers a favor in terms of engine performance. It certainly meets the performance requirements of brands such as Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Honda, Tecumseh, and Craftsman!

Check out the price on Amazon. 

How often should I replace my lawnmower oil?

Many car owners change their car's oil once a year as part of an annual tune-up up. It lengthens the life of the engine as its parts are protected from wear.

For smaller engines, the comparison is the same - many lawnmowers will change their oil once a year in the spring when the grass starts to grow long and the mower is used more regularly. 

This is tied to the use of the mower - your mower can have varying needs depending on use hours. A lawn that's mown for half an hour once a month, may only need a change once a year but a weekly mower of a larger lawn may require two changes. 

A ride-on mower is probably more likely to benefit from a change at 100 hours of run time and annually. 

If you feel your engine isn't performing well, a change of oil may help. As we always recommend, your user instruction manual should be able to give you advice - and it will be good advice too because the dudes and dudettes who made the engine have tested it to the ground in the lab so they will know how their machine works under so many conditions. 

How to remove old oil from a lawnmower

When it comes to changing lawn mower oil, there are certainly a few tips and tricks that you can do to make sure you have an oil splash free transfer.

So now you've understood the reasons why you need to regularly change your engine's oil, the next question might be how!

Items you may need to change the oil:

• A pan or contain to catch the old oil 
• some old rags or cloths 
• A wrench with appropriate socket size for the oil drain nu 
• Engine oil that suits your needs 
• Funnel 
• Siphon or oil kit system if you are going to siphon rather than drain

Location of the oil change

The first thing to do is consider the location where you will drain the oil already inside the mower.

Naturally, you'll want to avoid doing this operation on your grass lawn or near your garden in case of spillage.

To that end, a concrete surface such as a driveway is ideal. You'll, of course, want to lay down newspaper or cardboard to catch any oil drops that may collect to avoid staining the concrete.

Warm the engine before you drain the oil

It is best to have turned the lawnmower's engine over for a few minutes before you drain the oil. This is because particles that have collected will be floating around in the old oil.

Take care that when draining the oil that the engine parts are not too hot - you may need to use gloves if you have run the engine for a while. It's also now time to disconnect the spark plug to prevent any accidental ignition of the engine.

There are two ways to remove the oil:

1. Using the oil drain
2. Using a siphon pump

Locate the oil drain plug on the underside of the push mower

Clean the general area with an old cloth to prevent any external debris from falling into the crankcase when you open the drain plug.

Tilt the mower deck and then position some newspaper and an oil pan or jug beneath the mower.

Then take a socket wrench to run the plug counterclockwise. This allows the oil to drain into your collection device. Once the oil has fully drained, secure the drain plug by twisting clockwise and tightening gently with the wrench.

If your mower has an oil filter, it's the opportune time to replace it as well.

Removing the engine oil with a siphon kit

If your preference is to siphon via the oil entry point rather than drain, a siphon kit might be just the ticket.

Once you have your siphon at the ready, place one end of its tube into the oil fill hole and make sure it has reached the bottom of the reservoir. The other end of the tubing needs to be placed into a container that will not knock over during the process.

Engage your siphon and do your best to empty as much of the used oil as you can.

Tilting the engine on its side slightly can help pool the last of the oil and the tube can be manipulated into a position to collect the last of the oil.

These kits can also be used to transfer fuel from your car or fuel container directly into the lawn mower's fuel pump. A handy way to make an efficient transfer!

Once you have completed the siphoning, you are ready to add some new oil.

So you've got your oil, it's now time to add it to the engine.

How to add oil to your lawnmower

This is the easy part of lawn mower maintenance! 

1. Open the oil dipstick and remove it and check that you do actually need oil! 
2. If the reservoir is empty, add the manufacturer's recommended amount. 
3. You can pour the oil directly from the container or use a plastic funnel (or one you have fashioned from some scrap paper). If you make a mess, wipe the oil up with an old rag or paper towel.
4. Screw the dipstick back in place and run the engine for 30 seconds so the oil can get around the engine's internal parts. 
5. Unscrew the dipstick again so you can check the level - hopefully, the oil is bang on the 'full' line. If you have underfilled, top-up. If you have grossly overfilled you may wish to remove some oil. 

Nice work, you've replaced your engine oil. 

How much oil should I add to the lawnmower?

Lawnmowers come in varying sizes but generally speaking, you can break them down into two sizes, walk-behind mowers or ride on.

• For walk-behind mowers, the oil capacity is about 15oz or 18oz.
• Riding mowers tend to have an oil capacity of around 48oz or 64 oz.

As we need to keep stating, the exact amount for your engine will be found in the user manual and if you don't have it do hand, google it - they often can be found in a PDF format at the manufacturer's website.

What happens if I add too much oil?

Too much oil in the sump can be too much for the engine to handle. It might start to burn white or gray smoke. If you see this happening, it's time to change the oil. Drain it and then add the correct amount.

Too much oil can also prevent the engine from starting properly and there is nothing more frustrating on a Sunday afternoon if you can start your mower, especially if you are the cause!

An excess of oil can also potentially mean that it gets aerated and thus its performance declines.

You can check if you have too much oil but using the dipstick. If the oil is over the full line, you'll need to remove some oil.

But honestly, I never do...

How to dispose of lawnmower oil environmentally

If you have collected the used push lawn mower oil, please do not dump it down the drain or garbage bin. For the sake of the environment, there are plenty of places that will take your old oil.

Many services centers, dealerships, and gas stations will do this. Some mechanics do so as well for the 'locals'.

It's good to be green.

Is lawnmower oil the same as car / auto oil?

You might be eyeing up that bottle of Castrol car oil you have in your shed with an eye to adding it to your push lawn mower as it could save you a trip to the hardware store.

So can you use motor oil?

Technically speaking, yes. Four stroke small engines can use car oil. However, motor oil is generally designed for the hot and heavy conditions of a car that will be driven for long periods. 

A smaller engine will benefit from oil that is designed for it - this is why most brands and manufacturers recommend oils like Toro or Briggs and Stratton's version of SAE 30W.

If you have a two stroke engine (say a Honda), then you must absolutely only add two stroke oil to the fuel.  Two-cycle motors simply cannot use motor oil.

You'll also be wise to not use oil designed for big engine / heavy duty machines for small engines - you probably do not may have a viscosity that could actually cause a clog or even disable your unit.

Can I use 10w40 oil in my lawn mower engine?

10w40 can be used in a small engine and most users do not report an increase in consumption. It's related to the viscosity of the oil and manner it will operate in cold or hot temperatures. 

How to change a lawn mower oil filter?

If your lawnmower has an oil filter, you will need to change this once in a while so that it can continue to do its job of helping to keep your engine oil clean and free of gunk.

Once you have selected the correct filter for your engine (OEM or branded) follow these steps.

Locate the oil filter and twist it counterclockwise until the oil filter can be removed. 

If you cannot free it with your hands, you can use a pipe wrench or filter wrench.

Observe if there is dirt or other debris on the seal and clean it off with a rag (we love old towels for this).

Take your fresh engine oil, rub the clean sealing gasket with oil so that it appears clean and well-lubricated.

Take your new filter, remove it from the packaging and place it into the filter adapter and gently screw it in by hand. When you feel it's snugly in, tighten firmly with a wrench but do not over tighten it as you could cause some damage. 

Here's a handy video tutorial on how to change the filter on a riding mower - the principle is the same for the push mower:

Two stroke oil engines - add oil to the gas directly

If you have a two stroke lawn mower then you are going to do things a lot differently than as described. You will need to add the oil directly to the gas, just the same as you would a petrol chainsaw.

When fueling your lawnmower, you'll need to add the correct two stroke oil in the correct ratio to the fuel, before you add the mixture to the engine. How much to oil add to the petrol? As always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

I've got a brand new lawn mower, what do I do with the oil?

If you have brought a new lawnmower (even a battery powered one), it will not have oil in it, and if you run it without, you will break your engines internal working parts in pretty good time! So, get some oil and get it in. Run the engine, check the level is filled properly, and go cut some grass!

briggs and stratton, honda, husqvarna, kohler, lawn mowers, lawnmower maintenance, oil, synthetic oil, toro

Guide: How to replace a chainsaw spark plug

If your chainsaw is having a tough time starting, it could be because the air filter is blocked, you flooded it, or perhaps you just need to replace the spark plug.

The good news it's easy to replace the spark plug in your chainsaw.

Here's a general guide to removing and replacing a chainsaw's spark plug

It's best if you change the plug when the machine is cold, a machine that has recently been put through its paces will be hot, meaning you have to be mindful of that when changing. 

Of course, if your machine has been running you may not need to replace the plug...necessarily

How to change a spark plug on a chainsaw

1. This is perhaps kind of obvious but your machine needs to be turned off. Release the trigger on your chainsaw and slide the ignition switch in the rear of the engine down to the "Off" position. Simple. 
2. There will probably be some screws on the top cover of the saw which you may need to remove. Insert a flathead screwdriver (or apt shape) into each of the screws on the chainsaw's top cover housing. Turn the screws counterclockwise to loosen them and pull each one out of the cover. Pull the cover straight up and off the engine and put the screws in a place you will not lose them. Your machine cover may have a twist-off system, if so engage that. 
3. There may be a plastic shield, if so remove it. 
4. There is most likely a rubber spark plug boot on the front of the engine (it's black) - pull it directly from the spark plug. A simple 'wiggle off' should suffice.
5. Place a 3/4-inch socket wrench on top of the spark plug, turning it firmly counterclockwise will pull the spark plug out of the cylinder. It doesn't need the force of Thor, however! Be firm but gentle. If the plug is a bit sticky then a little CRC may help loosen it. When you bought your chainsaw, it most likely came with a chainsaw wrenchuse that as it will be the correct size to fit the plug. 
6. Have a fresh plug at the ready. Insert the new spark plug into the cylinder and turn it clockwise. Place a 3/4-inch socket on the spark plug and tighten it clockwise but do not overtighten. 
7. Replace the plug boot, any shielding, or air filters (make sure the filter is on correctly or it could suck dirt into the carburetor). 
8. Push the spark plug boot firmly onto the spark plug, replace the cover and screws, and tighten them clockwise with a flat-head screwdriver.

Test the change worked by starting the chainsaw. 

Extra for experts: you should test that you have the right plug and that it is 'gapped' appropriately - the electrode spark needs a sufficient 'gap' to do its thing. If you buy the correct replacement, it should be properly gapped out of the box. 

For those who like to take a more visual approach to how you learn, this tutorial video captures the basics of changing the spark plug quite well!

 

How can I tell if I need to replace the chainsaw's spark plug?

There are plenty of ways to determine when you need to replace your spark plug

Checking it visually will give great insight. If the engine is running as expected, the outside electrode will probably be covered with light brown deposits. 

If the engine isn't running normally, the condition of the plug will be poor. You may observe, thick black deposits that indicate that the fuel/air mixture is too rich. This means there isn't enough air in the mixture. A wide gap or corroded electrodes, on the other hand, are indications of a lean mixture. 

Oil on the plug indicates an oil leak which means your chainsaw needs maintenance or adjustment.

If the plug is coated with light brown deposits, and the 'gap' is correct, you don't need to do anything to the plug. 

If it's coated with black deposits or oil, these need to be removed. You can remove them with an emery board or a small piece of 120-grit wet/dry sandpaper or similar. Even a scratch with a screwdriver can work...

You can adjust the gap, if need be, with pliers. Do not exert too much pressure or you could snap it.  

Using a spark plug tester to check for ignition issues

A spark plug tester is a tool that allows you to check if your spark plug is working properly. It can also save you time by allowing you to check if the problem is actually in your ignition.

In simple use terms, you just need to connect the metal end of the tester to the spark plug coil and start the engine. If the ignition wire is intact, the indicator lights and you can be sure your engine is connecting to the plug coil, implying the starting fault is likely with the plug itself (assuming there's no engine failure or fuel issues of course).

What is the best kind of replacement chainsaw spark plug?

If you buy the correct replacement, it should be properly gapped 'out of the box'. 

Your starting point for guidance is in your instruction manual. This will tell you what sized spark and gapped plug you need. Look in the 'Technical data' chapter of your manual. If do not have one to hand, google your machine type and model for a PDF version. 

Remember, while your machine may be a certain brand, you do not need to use an official replacement part. Most 'after market' parts are fine - as long as they are quality and not some cheap end 'knock offs'.

Case in point, Stihl recommends owners use their NGK plugs in Stihl chainsaws.  

Local specialist chainsaw shops are also well placed to give advice on the correct plug. What I did when needing a replacement a few years back, was take the plug out and get them to swap it out, like for like. Did the same for my lawnmower spark plug too. 

NGK is a well known brand and suits most smaller chainsaws.

chainsaw maintenance, spark plug